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by Brett Singer
"Am
I a clown? Do I amuse you?" -
Joe Pesci, GOOD FELLAS This week GuyShop takes a look at gangster fashions, asking the question, are they coming back? Before we begin, however, some clarification:
1. In using the word 'gangster,' we are not talking about Tupac Shakur, Biggie Smalls, Puffy Combs, or any other rap stars with funny names. Usually referred to in the press as 'gangsta rappers,' this article is not about them (although a later article might be).
2. In using the word 'gangster,' we do not wish to end up in the Hudson River wearing "cement galoshes." "Sleeping with the fishes" is not on our agenda for this, or any other week.
Now that we've got that out of the way, let's take a look at the two different types of gangsters -- the classic Chicago-style, and the newer Sopranos-style.
Gangsters have always been closely identified with their clothing. Al Capone wore his trademark hat, plus three-piece suits and a pinky ring. Whatever one may say about Mr. Capone, he certainly spent money on his clothes. This trend toward the fashionable can also be seen in "Good Fellas," Martin Scorcese's classic film about more modern mobsters. Ray Liotta's character was definitely a sharp dresser - pinstripes, wingtips, and the pinky ring. Although updated from Capone's time (it was the 70's, after all), there were still obvious remnants of Prohibition-era fashion in Liotta's wardrobe.
But what about the psychologically deep, Prozac-popping paesans on "The Sopranos"? These guys dress far more downmarket than do the gang members of yesteryear. This is not to say that clothes aren't important to them. Case in point - a recent episode (#21, "Full Leather Jacket") featured Richie, one of Tony Soprano's fellow mobsters, giving Tony a gift -- a leather jacket that had been worn by Rocco DiMeo - the toughest guy in Essex and Hudson counties. The jacket is made out of "rich, Corinthian leather," according to Richie (a description he manages to say with a straight face), and Tony always admired it -- at least, according to Richie. When Richie sees the jacket on Tony's maid's husband, he is, to put it mildly, not happy (think an only slightly sedated version of Joe Pesci's rant in "Good Fellas"). Unlike the gangster fashions of Capone's time, the good fellas on "The Sopranos" dress like Jersey guys who spend more time getting their hands dirty (i.e., shooting people) than they do sipping Scotch at the local Legitimate Businessman's Social Club. Sweatsuits, jeans, and designer t-shirts are often the norm. Like working at an Internet company, one of the advantages of their particular line of work is not having to dress up every day.
If you are a man who wants a little more mobster in his life, or at least in his closet, there are some things you can do:
1. Wingtips: These shoes are, put simply, cool. The popularity of Prohibition-era/swing-style clothing has brought these once-cheesy foot coverings to the forefront of men's fashion. They make a statement, but not a loud one. It takes the right kind of man to pull off wearing them, however, since many people associate this kind of footwear with, well, the mob. Our advice -- wear them on special occasions, such as when you need to intimidate someone at a business meeting (i.e., if your boss thinks you're "connected," you just might get that raise you've been asking for).
2. Pinstripe suits: This one is trickier. Wide pinstripes (think New York Yankees uniforms) are probably not the way to go unless you really ARE connected and can have people killed for laughing at you. Thinner stripes, perhaps Navy Blue, are more sedated and still have a bit of that Capone-ish quality. Wear them with your wingtips and you are golden, baby.
3. Pinky rings: No kidding -- these are coming back. Where there was definitely a time where men who wore excessive jewelry were considered to be scuzzy, this is no longer the case. Our advice: although Mr. Pesci might tell you otherwise, stick with a small ring. Big rings will let people know you spent a lot of money of yourself, but they will also be the only thing on your body that anyone looks at for the first ten minutes that they see you. Plus your hand will start to hurt after a couple of hours. AND the rings were not designed for typing at a computer keyboard, something most of us do on a regular basis nowadays, no matter how macho or "connected" we are.
4. Cigars: One word -- Cubans. They are illegal, and that's what makes them mobster-cool. There is even an online cigar shop named for Teresina Capone's little boy (see below). If you can't get a Cuban, reverse our advice for pinky rings -- in this case, bigger is not only better, it's the only way to go. Stinky is fine, too. Unlike Demi Moore and other Hollywood types, you are not doing this to win friends, influence people and get on the cover of Cigar Magazine. You are enjoying a stogie and anyone who doesn't like it may get whacked (note: GuyShop does not endorse whacking anyone).
So what's the verdict? Tony Soprano's name may make the Jersey City boys run for the hills, but it also make Tommy Hilfiger shudder. Toughguy Tony may be, fashion plate he is not. Capone on the other hand -- that guy knew how to dress. So go forth and wear pinstripes, gangster guys -- just be careful not to take out any short-term loans that you won't be able to pay back.
Links:
"Sopranos" sites:
http://www.angelfire.com/ga2/sopranos/
http://www.nj.com/sopranos/
http://www.the-sopranos.com/
http://sopranos.hbo.com/sopranos/
Al Capone links:
http://www.stogiesonline.com/html/al_capone.htm
http://www.leesummit.k12.mo.us/lsnhs/capone.htm
http://www.nara.gov/exhall/originals/capone.html
Other kinds of gangsters:
http://www.papermag.com/stylin/fall97/spooky/
http://www.nmia.com/~jfdemps/gang.htm
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